From Soldiers to Bowie: The History of Men in Heels 

The intricate details of Charles II’s heels – Photo: Wikimedia

When you think of high heels, you probably envision women in fancy attire. However, what you may not realize is the extensive history of men donning these shoes long before women ever slipped their feet into them.

Below, you’ll delve into the history of men in high heels, tracing the origins of this trend and exploring its resurgence as modern fashion breaks down gender barriers.

Journey to 10th-Century Persia

The earliest documented instances of men wearing high-heeled shoes trace back to the 10th century. Persian soldiers adopted these footwear styles for practical reasons—they aided in keeping their feet secure in stirrups while riding horses and provided added stability when firing arrows.

This historical reason for donning high heels might ring a bell. If you’ve ever worn or seen a pair of cowboy boots, you’ll find the resemblance striking. It’s no coincidence—modern cowboy boots draw inspiration from this very tradition. More on this connection will be explored later.

A Symbol of Wealth and Influence

For centuries, Persian soldiers persisted in wearing heeled footwear—typically about an inch in height—even during periods of dismounted activity.

These elevated shoes became synonymous with equestrian pursuits, a status symbol of wealth and power. The possession of a horse signified affluence, hence high-heeled shoes swiftly evolved into a potent emblem of financial and social stature.

From Persia to Europe

Towards the end of the 17th century, the Persian Shah dispatched a contingent of soldiers to Europe with the aim of fostering relations with foreign leaders from Russia, Germany, and Spain. This diplomatic initiative sparked what came to be known as “Persia-mania,” gripping the continent and inspiring European aristocrats to adopt the fashion of wearing high heels.

European nobility, eager to integrate this exotic trend, infused their own flair into the heeled shoe craze. Throughout the 17th century, men’s fashion accentuated the legs, characterized by the wearing of high heels alongside snug, vibrant stockings and billowy trousers that accentuated their calves and thighs.

Louis XIV: History’s Most Famous High-Heeled Man

Dressed to impress, Louis XIV in a 1701 portrait – Photo: Wikipedia

Though he didn’t initiate the trend, King Louis XIV is celebrated as one of history’s most prominent aficionados of high heels. During his reign, the association between high, red heels and power solidified—indicating that the higher and redder the heels, the greater the perceived authority of the wearer.

In a significant move in 1670, Louis XIV issued an edict stipulating that only the nobility were entitled to wear high-heeled and red-heeled shoes.

Red heels held profound symbolism during this era. Those adorned with them were regarded as so affluent that they need not fret over soiling their shoes, symbolizing a level of power potent enough to subdue adversaries underfoot.

When Did Women Start Wearing Heels?

It wasn’t until the 18th century that women embraced shoes with higher heels.

During this era, women’s footwear underwent a transformation, adopting narrower and more embellished styles, leading to the surge in popularity of high heels. Meanwhile, men’s footwear diverged, favoring broader and sturdier designs.

Around 1730, men abandoned high-heeled shoes due to their perceived femininity. Preferring to distance themselves from associations with women’s accessories, men sought out entirely different types of footwear.

The 1960s Revival

For centuries, most men eschewed high-heeled shoes. However, this ostensibly feminine footwear experienced a resurgence during the 1960s and 1970s.

During this era, The Beatles played a pivotal role in popularizing the “Cuban heel“—a style characterized by its angled and rounded design.

Ankle-high boots with pointed toes and Cuban heels gained fame as “Beatle boots.” While the heel measured only about an inch off the ground, its presence was undeniable.

The Beatles rockin’ their signature “Beatle boots” – ankle-high boots with Cuban heels and sharp toes – Photo: Rake

Yet, The Beatles were not the sole influencers in redefining men’s fashion.

In the 1980s, trailblazers like David Bowie boldly embraced high-heeled shoes, transcending traditional norms by donning stilettos and platforms throughout his illustrious career.

Following suit in the 1990s, the members of Mötley Crüe embraced high heels, notably sporting Cuban heels—a hallmark of the rocker aesthetic—in many iconic photographs.

Don’t Forget About the Cowboys!

A weathered straw hat, a well-worn lasso, and a sturdy pair of boots – all essentials for a cowboy, heels included! – Photo: Josephhershmedia | Unsplash

While various styles of high-heeled footwear have graced history’s stages, there’s one steadfast group of men who have consistently embraced them: cowboys. Renowned for their distinctive boots, complete with a heel typically measuring between 1.5 to 2 inches in height.

In contemporary society, high-heeled shoes aren’t typically associated with masculinity—except, of course, when it comes to cowboys. For who could dispute the rugged masculinity of a cowboy astride a horse, skillfully herding cattle?

Modern Footwear Trends

Today, some men have chosen to reclaim the high-heeled shoe, showcasing their style on the streets, television screens, and in the pages of fashion magazines. From sleek stilettos to bold platforms, men are embracing a diverse range of heel types.

Influencers like Mark Bryan have garnered substantial followings for their bold fashion choices, unapologetically challenging societal norms.

Dedicated shoe brands, such as Syro, cater to men with a penchant for high heels, offering a wide array of sizes to suit every individual.

While not yet ubiquitous, societal acceptance of men wearing high heels is growing. If you’re curious, don’t hesitate to try them on—should anyone question your choice, remind them that men have a long history of wearing heels!